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More Hammer Tricks

You can do fancy things with a hammer and the right nails. And lately, I’ve been doing
a lot of practicing with cut nails for a series of projects I’m working on that feature
nails (including the dry sink in the next issue of Woodworking Magazine).

The more I learn about nails, the more I find out there are lots of interesting things
you do with them. You probably have heard about “clinching” (sometimes spelled “clenching”)
nails. This is when the tip of the nail passes entirely through both of your workpieces.
Then you use your hammer to bend the nail’s tip over and back into the work.

You see lots of this in boat building and in old work, especially where battens have
been attached to doors.

Some people can’t quite visualize this, and so I was happy to find the illustration
above in “Exercises in Woodworking,” a late 19th-century book that I need to do a
full blog entry on. It’s quite cool. You can download the whole
book at Google Books
.

I’ve found the trick to clinching nails is to have the nail’s head resting on a piece
of steel plate or some small anvil. It makes it much easier to turn over the tip.

While I was browsing this book, I also found a description of how to swing a hammer
to encourage floorboards or backboards to mate together tightly along their edges.
I’ve done this before (by accident), but I didn’t know exactly what was going on inside.
The illustration (figure 5 above) shows it brilliantly.

“Fig. 5 illustrates a peculiar drawn blow of the hammer. Starting at
d, it
follows the direction of the broken line in its course; the effect of which is to
bend the nail in such a manner that it forces the board
a close up to c,
as shown at
f. This blow is practiced in nailing floors and in clinching wrought
nails.”

Or you can try finding this
device
….

— Christopher Schwarz

Wood Movement on a Chess Board? – Viewer Question

This Viewer Question comes from Reggie who writes:

“Marc, first thanks for the wonderful website!!! Second, I am relatively new to woodworking and have a question about wood movement on a chess board I am building for my son. My choice of woods are 3/4? hard maple with a very little curl, and walnut. My procedure so far was to face and edge joint, thickness plane, and saw 4 2?x 25?x 9/16? sections of each wood. I then edge glued them to each other using Titebond II. Next was to cross cut the piece into 2 inch sections and flip every other section to give me the checkerboard pattern and re-glue. I have just finished hand planing one face perfectly flat. Now I want to edge/frame the board with mitered 3? sections of walnut.”

“Now the problem. I currently live in Louisville, Ky but my son lives in Southern Louisiana. I know without a doubt that the climates are VERY different and I need to account for this, but how? He has taken to playing chess with his friends and I know that it would be very appreciated by him, so I don’t want to mess this up! The only advice I have been given is to glue the board I have made so far to some 1/4 inch plywood. Cut a slot in the mitered frame and let the board float in it. Would this work or do you have a better idea? Also, will Titebond II be good enough to hold the walnut through expansion when glued end grain to end grain on the corner miters (I don’t have a biscuit joiner and working for the military doesn’t allow me to afford one right now.) To sum up … HELP!!!!!!!!”

And my response was:

Hey Reggie. I am glad you emailed me BEFORE framing the board. I made a board almost exactly like this one. And I still have it today. I have it as an example of what NOT to do with your projects, lol. I didn’t know too much about wood movement at the time and surrounded the board with a frame anyway. Big mistake. I have posted a video that highlights my mistakes with this board.

Anyway, the idea about the plywood will work, but only if you glue the chess board to the ply at the center. If you glue the whole thing down, you aren’t allowing the wood to expand and contract. So a little glue at the center would be all you should do. Now this plywood trick is a slightly less elegant (but simpler) way to do what I would recommend. What I would do is cut a groove around the perimeter of the chess board. Cut a similar groove around the frame pieces. Then use strips of ply as splines that are cut just short enough to allow some movement all around the board (or at least the two sides that run with the grain). But the fit in terms of thickness of the strips and width of the groove is such that the board doesn’t wobble around. This will allow the chess board to move within the frame. Like I said, a different way of accomplishing the same thing that was recommended to you. But no big piece of ply involved.

And there aren’t many choices beyond that. One way or another, you need to allow the wood to move. And you could always get creative and suspend the board inside the frame using a dowel at each end, and cutting the holes a little extra deep to allow for movement. Kind of like the table top on my end table from a while back. But that completely changes the look. You could also cut your solid stock into veneer, and glue that down to a stable substrate as a method of eliminating wood movement. Something to consider. As for Titebond II, that should be strong enough assuming you have tight fitting joints and good pressure, and its a relatively light duty piece. Hope that helps and good luck!


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Blanket Chest – Viewer Project

This week’s project comes from Keith in Virginia. Let’s check it out:

“Hey Marc! I wanted to show you a few pictures of my first completed piece of what I guess you’d call “casework”. I made this blanket chest as a gift for my brother-in-law and his soon-to-be bride. It’s made out of rift sawn and quartersawn white oak. The dimensions are 42?L x 21?W x 20?D. This project was a first for me using many different techniques. It’s the first breadboard lid I’ve made, as well as the first time I’ve attempted a frame-and-panel case. I used aromatic red cedar planks, purchased from Home Depot as “closet liner”, to line the box. These were applied with 3/4? brads.”

“I started the finishing process by applying a liberal coat of Transtint’s Dark Mission Brown, mixed in distilled water. After a light 320 grit sanding, I applied a coat of dewaxed shellac. From there, I wiped on a thick coat of General Finishes walnut gel stain. I let it sit for a couple of minutes, then wiped it off with a clean cloth. After another light sanding, I applied three coats of General’s Satin High Performance topcoat, rubbed with 0000 steel wool between coats. A couple of coats of paste wax later, and this is where it’s at.”

“My wife loves it and has mentioned a couple of times already that her brother will never know that they didn’t get their “original” gift. :-) I guess I’ll be making another one of these soon. Thanks for looking!”

blanketchest7-large blanketchest5-large blanketchest3-large blanketchest1-large

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Other Voices: Rob’s 10 Rules About Workbenches

One of the few other people on this earth who understand my sickness affection
for workbenches is Rob Giovannetti.

I met Rob at a Gallotapalooza event outside
Chicago several years ago, and we’ve stayed in contact via e-mail. Rob – and I say
this in the most affectionate manner possible – has a workbench problem.

He’s built eight workbenches (all different styles) and taught two classes about it.
You might remember is Rob-O
workbench
from 2006 that I featured here on the blog.

Rob is about to embark on another bench-building adventure real soon. His next bench
I have named the “Manufactured Wood Smurf Bench.” Long story. It’s going to be cool
when it’s done, I’m sure.

In the meantime, Rob sent me the following list of the top 10 things he’s learned
about workbenches. It’s an interesting list.

— Christopher Schwarz


1. Benches don’t need to made of hardwood.
I’ve made several benches from hard
maple, but the ones I’ve made from Borg Douglas fir worked just as well and were usually
easier to make.

2. I have a love/hate relationship with tail vises.
I’ve tried every vise you
could think of as an end vise, including none, and I keep coming back to the tail
vise. I can’t fully explain why this is, but it just is.

3. The shoulder vise is the easiest face vise to use, but the most time consuming
and complicated to build.
Go figure. If you like to dovetail and hand cut your
tenons, I recommend this as the vise of choice. A close second would be a twin-screw.

4. Square dogs aren’t worth the effort. This may sound like laziness, but aside
from a sense of “tradition,” there is no reason for me to have square dogs. Round
holes are quicker and easier to make, and they hold just as well. Plus, the 3/4″ holes
can be used for a wide variety of other purposes.

5. If one row of dogs is good, one is even better.
In other words, I’ve not encountered
a single situation where multiple rows of dogs was a benefit; and I have a bench with
four rows of ‘em.

6. Tool trays are for people who are clutter-aholics.
I am one of them. Even with
my tools hanging above my bench, I’m much more likely to throw a tool in the tray
than put it back where it belongs. I’ve found more organized people don’t use them.

7. A good bench NEEDS a board jack. Whether the base is flush with the front
edge of the top or not, a sliding deadman is a must-have accessory.

8. The only reasons I can figure for having endcaps on a bench are
either 1) they
support a tool tray at the rear of the bench, or 2) they support a vise of some kind
on one, or both, ends of the bench. I don’t believe an endcap has the rigidity to
keep a top from cupping.

9. If I had a dedicated gluing/assembly table, my bench would have no finish on it
at all.
Even with dogs, wood on wood is the best grip you can get. Even one coat
of oil can make a benchtop overly slippery.

10. None of these things apply if you can make masterwork furniture on a sheet
of plywood on sawhorses.
Some of the best work I’ve seen has come from the simplest
of assembly tables; but if you do a lot of hand tool work, I think the aforementioned
points will help make building furniture much easier.

Please note I didn’t mention plywood as a bench material. Truth be told, I don’t know
much about building benches from man-made materials. I do, however, have an idea of
building a top from 3″ wide ripped Baltic birch and face gluing them together to form
a core. Laminate with hardwood veneer or hardboard on the top and bottom, and add
equal thickness solid wood skirting around the edges, I think it would be quite suitable
for pounding on without much flex.

— Rob Giovannetti

Most Popular Stories of 2008

Perhaps I should break my vow to my wife and build some more workbenches.

During a routine audit of our web traffic on this blog, I was surprised to learn that
the most popular page on the blog in 2008 was the “Workbenches”
page
. (You can access this page by clicking on “Workbenches” in
the Navigation bar at right. It calls up all the stories I’ve tagged as dealing with
workbenches and workholding. More than 20,000 people browsed that page last year.

Here the next nine most-popular stories, along with some updates.

2. Free
Drawing of the Knockdown Holtzapffel Workbench.
The lesson: Give away something
free about a workbench and it’s bound to attract some attention.  

3. First
Look at the Jointmaker Pro.
This incredible new saw from Bridge City Tools attracted
a lot of interest and controversy. Just this week, Bridge City announced that it is
assembling the Jointmaker Pro. You can read all about that here.

4. The
Handplanes page.
Click on “Handplanes” in the Navigation bar and hope you have
a good connection to the Internet.

5. A
Japanese Workbench.
This was a real shocker. Not a single person commented on
this blog post. And it had a cute photo of one of Harrelson Stanley’s kids. Almost
9,000 people read the story. Go figure.

6. Free
eDrawings of the Tabouret Table
. This was a popular project (I get mail about
it almost every week). So no surprises here.

7. My
First Pair of Pantyhose
. Note to self: Write more stories with undergarments and
cross-dressing in the headlines.

8. The
Holtzapffel Workbench
. Another workbench story. Click.

9. The
Electronic Drawings page.
This is encouraging. We really like the SketchUp and
eDrawing files we provide. And it looks like you guys do, too. Or perhaps we just
got a lot of clicks from Eastern European thieves who are ripping us off.

10. New
Premium Handplanes From Stanley.
Production on these planes has been delayed while
Stanley officials make sure that the quality is where they want it. Officials say
they are very close to being ready to crank up production.

Next week: The least popular stories of 2008. Or maybe not. I’m afraid it will be
my “Personal
Favorites”
page.

— Christopher Schwarz

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In the Newest Issue: 7 Strategies for Better Drawers

The February 2009 issue has been mailed to subscribers and will be available for sale
on the newsstands starting next week. As always, we try to provide you with the best
traditional and modern woodworking techniques, and the newest issue is no exception.
Here are some of the stories you’ll find in the latest issue.


On the Cover:

7 Strategies for Better Drawers


Details make the difference between fine furniture and pedestrian design – and drawers
in particular reveal the care of the craftsman. Mario Rodriguez provides instruction
on constructing elegant drawers for your finest projects, from how to properly prepare
drawer stock, to scaling your components so they aren’t chunky, to making drawer slips.

Shaker Stepback

Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick shows you how to build a stepback that is sized
for traditional china or a flat-screen television.

Four Ways to Make a Tapered Leg

We explore four different methods for tapering legs: using handplanes, using a custom
table saw jig, using a jointer and using a jig for your planer.

The Barnsley Hayrake Table

Traditional craftsman Don Weber builds one of the signature objects from the British
Arts & Crafts movement using (mostly) hand tools.

HayrakeTable.pdf
(3.21 MB)

D.L. Barrett & Sons, Planemakers

Meet Kyle Barrett, the maker of an award-winning plow plane and the continent’s newest
custom toolmaker. And get this: He’s just 18 years old.

Make a Ball and Claw Foot

Adam Cherubini enlists the help of Chris Storb to produce a stunning pictorial account
of how to carve a ball-and-claw foot.

Finishing Cherry

Bob Flexner dispenses the truth about cherry: It blotches, even under a clear finish.
Efforts to control the blotching are usually futile or make the overall project look
worse. Here’s what to do.

SawStop’s Contractor Saw

Senior Editor Glen D. Huey reviews the new SawStop contractor saw after the entire
staff takes the machine for a spin.

Great Woodshops: Reuben Margolin

Artist and woodworker Reuben Margolin makes stunning moving sculptures from wood that
imitate nature, from a caterpillar to wind blowing a wheat field.

— Christopher Schwarz

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Gun Case Design – Question of the Week

This week’s question comes from Tom, who writes:

I am planning a display case for a shotgun (grandfather’s) and a putter (dad’s), and perhaps a smaller case for two pocket watches (grandfathers’). I was thinking simple boxes at first, then I started considering adding some detail that could represent my contribution when I give them to my son (he’s 28).

guncaseI’ve been playing with G&G type joints you are using on your gadget station but I seem to be hitting a stumbling block (sketches attached). I think I need a face frame to add some thickness to hold glass, but the top/side/front intersections get a little clumsy and busy. They need to be a little light, since the pieces are fairly small. The face frames are typically wider and fit inside the case on bigger cabinets, and I haven’t been successful at finding examples of more delicate 3-way jointing. I was wondering If you could offer any suggestions.

One way to solve the problem is to “change the question” and build a single cabinet for all four pieces, but I would really prefer a “set” of smaller wall mounts. But I’m open to any reaction or ideas you may offer. Thank you in advance.

And here was my reply:
Hey Tom. Sometimes we can over think things to the point that we make them more complicated then they need to be. And communicating this via email is going to be tricky. So I will do the best I can to explain. Worse case scenario, I can always get on the live cam and show you examples of what i mean.

First off, I would start designing the piece as a basic box. That will serve as your empty canvas and you can simply add things or take things away as needed in order to arrive at the final design. So in your mind, start with 4 sides and simple butt joints. Then add in the back panel, which is set about 3/4? in from the back in order to allow for the french cleat. The panel has to be at least 1/2? ply and will sit in grooves that are cut all around the inside edges of the box. The front has a simple face frame with a rabbet for the glass. The face frame can be glued directly to the body since its a long-grain to long-grain joint. Use biscuits or dowels for alignment purposes if you need to. OK so now you have the template for the basic box. Let’s start making it fancy. Start with the corner joints. Instead of butt joints, we upgrade them to Greene & Greene style joints. Although these are a lot cooler looking, they don’t really change much in terms of our basic box design. How about the face frame? Lets have the face frame joined with mortise and tenon joints and lets have them pegged, just as you do in your sketch. The face-frame is then glued to the front of the box, and trimmed flush on all four sides. No need to inset the frame itself into the box. Hopefully you see where I am going with this. This is how I start all of my box designs. I just find it much easier to adorn a simple box than to reverse engineer a complicated design. Hopefully that will help you get rolling. Let me know if you have any questions and good luck!

Related Posts

Dovetailing: Pins vs. Tails Part III

 

This is part III of our series on Dovetailing: Pins vs. Tails. This footage was taken at the Woodworking in America Conference 2008. Frank Klausz and Roy Underhill discuss:

  • Different hand saws for cutting dovetails
  • Cutting half-blind dovetalis for drawers
  • Cutting mitered dovetails by hand
  • Using alcohol powered tools (Don’t try this at home!)
  • Frank puts on a sharpening clinic for chisels

This is the last segment of the dovetailing workshop. For more videos from the Woodworking in America Conference 2008 go to our website at:

www.WoodworkersResource.com

Thanks for watching!

Craig Stevens

Dovetailing: Pins vs. Tails Part II

 

This is Part II of Dovetailing: Pins vs. Tails that we shot at the Woodworking in America Conference 2008. In this episode Frank Klausz and Roy Underhill discuss:

  • Which Type of glue works best for dovetails
  • Roy shows how to drill a square hole with a forgotten tool
  • How to incorporate moulding with dovetails
  • Orienting tails and pins in different furniture
  • Making dovetails to your taste instead of measuring

Part III of Dovetailing: Pins vs. Tails can be found on our website as well as other video taken from the Woodworking in America Conference 2008.

www.WoodworkersResource.com

Thanks for watching!

Craig Stevens

339 Workbenches with Chris Schwarz at WIA

The Holiday Season is here again!  To make it easier for you to find the perfect gift for that woodworker on your list, use these links to head to your favorite online store while also helping support this show.  Thanks!

Woodcraft.com - Helping You Make Wood WorkHighland Woodworking Link

I still have a lot more footage and some great topic ideas from my time at the Woodworking in America conference last month.  One of the things I wanted to share with you is this great footage from a class with Chris Schwarz on…what else?…the workbench.

Hendrik is back in December and our discussion will be "Advice for Beginner Woodworkers" so send in you questions about machinery and tool selection, shop set-up (electrical, lighting, shop heat).  Recommended projects, etc.  Send those along with your comments, questions or schwag entries to mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com,  or leave a voicemail at 231 354-2338.

Don't miss out on the next "Wood Talk Online Live".  This Wednesday December 17th at 9:00PM EST over at www.thewoodwhisperer.com , see you there!

Help Support Matt’s Basement Workshop by visiting our sponsors!
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