Monthly Archives: September 2008

Ever since we published plans for the Holtzapffel Cabinetmaker’s Workbench in Issue
8 of Woodworking Magazine, readers have requested information on how to
build the bench so it could be easily knocked down and moved.

The version I built and published plans for in Issue 8 used old-world bench-building
principles where the legs were tenoned into the top and the base parts were permanently
drawbored. But when Kelly
Mehler and I taught a class in constructing the bench last month, we decided to
modify the plans to make the whole thing break down for easy transport. The students
hailed from all over the country (Missouri, Alaska, Michigan), and so a portable version
was necessary.

By the way, if you missed my daily blog posts about this class, you can find them
over at the Popular Woodworking editor’s blog by clicking below.

Day
1: Sticks
Day
2: Glue
Day
3: Grit
Day
4: Gruntwork
Day
5: Grease
Day
6: Guessing
Day
7: Gone

This weekend my blisters from the class began to fade, and so I cleaned up the construction
drawing and cutting list a bit – you can download them for free below.

Here’s how the knockdown construction works in a nutshell: The workbench’s base is
made up of two end assemblies, which are permanently glued and drawbored, plus two
long stretchers.

Compared to the original design, the only changes to the end assemblies are that the
legs don’t have tenons on the top and you need to add a 3″-wide top stretcher to each
end assembly. These top stretchers will help you attach the base to the benchtop.

The base’s long stretchers are significantly different. The long stretchers have short
tenons and are attached to the end assemblies with 1/2″ x 8″-long hex-head cap screws,
washers and nuts. All in all, the base’s joinery works a lot like a traditional bed.

The assembled joint that shows the cap screws in place and the plywood template.

The disassembled joint that shows the short tenon on the long stretcher.

To install the cap screws, drill 5/8″-diameter holes through the legs. Then rout out
slots for the nuts and washers in the long stretchers using a plywood pattern, a 1/2″
spiral bit and a guide bushing (see the photo for what this looks like). With the
slots routed, install the cap screws, washers and nuts. Snug everything up with a
socket set and box wrench.

With the base assembled, attach the workbench’s top to the base with 3/8″ x 5″-long
lag screws through the top stretchers in the end assemblies. We used four lag screws
per bench. The screws at the front of the bench were in 3/8″-diameter holes. The screws
at the rear of the bench were in 1/2″-diameter holes, which allows for wood movement.

Everything else about this bench is identical to the plans found in Issue
8.

Holtzapffel_KD_Bench.pdf (52.91
KB)

— Christopher Schwarz

Home maintenance does not have to be expensive. Hiring a contractor for a simple paint job can run up a hefty tab so doing it yourself should be your prime consideration. It’s a simple do-it-yourself projects which you can do on your own. You can start by learning how to paint the rooms in your house.

What color is your home? Making a color choice is crucial. Once you decide on a color and buy cans of paint, there’s no turning back. I advice that before you make that purchase, scan through pages of lifestyle magazines which showcase houses and spaces. Look for something which might appeal to your taste. Get an idea how your room might look if you use a particular color. Consider factors such as light, and mood you wish to create for each room.

Purchase a latex paint (oil-based paints are harder to apply and more susceptible to mildew, dries longer, and gives of stronger odors than latex) of your chosen color. The most usual wall finish are flat, eggshell, and satin. Other things you will be needing are: tarpaulins, a paint roller, and a paint brush.

Before you open any paint can, clear the wall of any decorations and get all your furniture out of the room or in the center, away from the walls. For additional protection, you can cover them with tarps or newspapers. Cover your floor as well.

It is necessary to clean the walls before painting them. Get off the stains. Scrub the wall clean and let it dry completely before getting started with the painting.

Use the paint roller to paint small sections. Be fast but meticulous about it because you have to blend completely. Every refill allows you to paint small sections so be quick because blending is better when the paint is still wet.

Wait for the wall paint to completely dry before you put back the furniture and the wall decorations.